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Fencing Installs
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Fencing Installs 
Installing your own 6 ft garden panels on flat or gently sloping ground using timber posts is a relatively easy job. The most difficult part of the panel fence will probably be the fact that your fence run is likely to need finishing with a “part” panel – we will deal with this later. A few tips are provided here and later in 2009 we will add a more definitive text on installationIf you have an existing fence that needs replacing, the first job is to dismantle the old fence. This should be a fairly simple job but one pointer, don’t be tempted to leave the old posts in unless they are nearly new and solidly fixed. Once you have a clear area in which to run your new fencing then you must figure out where the new posts are going to be situated. This is dictated by the size of your panels and note that “traditional” panels are usually 1.83 metres wide and “continental” style panels are usually 1.8 metres wide. As a rule of thumb do not set your posts until you are confident of the size of panels you have purchased. Our traditional panels come in a variety of heights, the supporting posts should be 600mm (2’) longer, we always recommend 100mm x 100mm posts (4” x 4”) for privacy panels unless they are made in such a way as to allow the wind to pass through the panel framework. The postholes should be 450mm – 600mm (18”-24”) deep and dug tightly to provide the post with as much support as possible. If the surrounding soil is particularly light you might have to dig a larger hole and use more Postcrete to set the posts firmly. Mark out the fence run with a line or string stretched between the first and last post positions. Hold the first post against the line and make sure it is vertical using a spirit level. Make a mark on the ground where the hole needs to be made. Most use a garden spade for digging; some may have a post auger or posthole diggers, but whatever the case try and keep the hole the same width for the entire depth and make the bottom of the hole flat and square. Once the required depth has been reached drop the post in the hole and adjust until you have sufficient height of post above the ground level. At this point you should recheck the ground level for the posts that follow if you want the tops of the panels to be the same height! Whether you fix the panels with screws (preferable), or nails it’s a good idea to drill pilot holes to take the fixings to prevent the frame battens from splitting. Fixings should be about 70mm –80mm (about 3”) or you could use some U-shaped fencing brackets to make panel removal easier. Fix the panel so the top capping rails is about 25mm (1”) below the top of the post to allow post caps to be fixed. Most installations take advantage of Postcrete, which usually sets sufficiently in 15 minutes to allow the panel to be fixed and allow work to begin on the next section of fence. Allow between 1-2 bags of Postcrete depending on size of posts and the height/style of the panels. An extra pair of hands is useful when setting posts to check with a builder’s spirit level that the post is vertical. Follow the instructions on the bag of Postcrete and tamp the mix down with an off-cut of timer - a length of 4x2" timber is ideal. Using the rammer, compact the mix and check the post is vertical before temporarily fixing with batten or wood off-cuts. Where possible slope the top of the concrete away from the post slightly to prevent water laying against the timber – this will help the post will last longer. Whether you fix the panels with screws (preferable), or nails it’s a good idea to drill pilot holes to take the fixings to prevent the frame battens from splitting. Fixings should be about 70mm –80mm (about 3”) or you could use some U-shaped fencing brackets to make panel removal easier. Fix the panel so the top capping rails is about 25mm (1”) below the top of the post to allow post caps to be fixed. Normal practice is to dig all the postholes before installing the panels and the position of the second posthole will be determined by the end of the first panel. Once the second posthole is ready, drop the post in and if the first post is secure the first panel can be fixed to give an exact position for the second post. In these circumstances screwing the panel to the post is preferable to nails – the hammering could move the position of the first post slightly. Secure the second post to this panel ensuring that the post is vertical in both planes. When adding the Postcrete to the second post be very careful not to get any mix on the panel because it may stain the panel. Repeat the procedure for all of the remaining posts and panels. At the end of the run it is probable that you will need to cut a whole panel to make a “part” panel to finish your fence. Measure the gap between the posts and set the last post into position. Measure the gap carefully – twice – because you don’t want to cut the last panel too small. Now mark the panel and to keep it solid fix some temporary battens to the edge of the cut so the panel doesn’t disintegrate when cutting. Use a circular saw if possible to make the task easier, and make the cut panel a few millimetres narrower than the gap size to make fitting easier. Take off the temporary battens; remove the edge battens from the off-cut and tidy up any staples. Finally replace the edge battens using woodscrews of the correct length. You should now be able to fix the final “part” end panel and fix post caps to each post to complete the job. It is advisable when fixing wooden fence post caps to pre-drill the fixing holes to prevent the post caps from splitting. |
